Feast for the senses

Cibo in downtown Monterey much more than a nightclub
The Monterey County Herald
Article Last Updated: 03/27/2008 09:12:55 AM PDT

In the restaurant world, providing "something for everyone" is often a recipe for disaster, requiring a massive, across-the-board effort that undermines quality and consistency. Narrow your focus, the experts advise, and do one thing really well.

Some places become an exception to that rule. Take Cibo Ristorante Italiano, for example. The venerable downtown Monterey establishment is at once an uptown restaurant, a family friendly, value-priced eatery, a cocktail lounge and a nightclub.

"We cover all the bases," said Mario Catalano, who with his mother Rosa co-owns this family restaurant that has stood the test of time for 18 years at the corner of Alvarado and Del Monte. "This has been years in the making."

And it's still evolving. The Catalanos recently revamped the menu and wine list, expanding on their philosophy to include the best of Old World and New World cuisine. The usual Italian suspects abound (ravioli, pizza margherita, pasta Bolognese), but the menu takes a turn toward the less mundane with veal Marsala, housemade Italian sausage, grilled lamb chops and risotto with wild mushrooms and leeks. And the kitchen employs the use of seafood, much of it sustainable.

Catalano is especially proud of the addition of a bar menu, which runs the gamut from gourmet (fresh oysters with raspberry mignonette granita) to grub food (grilled rib-eye steak sandwich).

Next in line is an overhaul of the dessert menu by an in-house pastry chef.

The pulsing bar flanks one end of the expansive restaurant — with plenty of nook-and-cranny seating in the middle facing the stage (music begins at 10 p.m. most nights) — and a more sedate experience past an ornate room divider toward the Del Monte side of the building.

The restaurant opens at 5 p.m., and until 7 p.m. offers a prix fixe menu for $22 that includes two courses a dessert and a glass of house wine.

|HE SAID|

Cibo translates to "food" in Italian, but I always figured this restaurant that bills itself as "a feast for the senses" had to suffer in the kitchen; it's almost a law of nature.

I held onto certain misconceptions about Cibo, awarded in the past as "Best Place to Meet Singles in Their 30s and 40s" and "Best Place to Enjoy a Martini." I assumed it was a meat market, a testosterone pool of smarmy men with sprouting chest hair, and prowling cougars who have their divorce lawyers on speed dial.

It is a meat market, but the specialties are local seafood, veal, lamb chops — and on this night a mollusk amalgamation called scalone. The food is not run-of-the-mill, and most of it is prepared with skill. The atmosphere is intimate yet vibrant, cool yet classy, and good acoustics allow for relaxed table conversation — at least until 10 p.m., when the live jazz begins.

We are made to feel welcome, lingering over the interesting menu and a basket of crispy flatbread and warm ciabatta. We start with the scalone ($15 as an appetizer), a blend of puréed scallops and abalone pressed into "steaks," egg-dipped, lightly breaded, pan-fried and served picatta-style. The tofu-like texture may prove off-putting to some (although it would be less appetizing if the inventor had settled on the name scabalone). In my book, a winner — sweet, mild and tender — pairing nicely with our bottle of Torrontes, a crisp, floral white from Argentina ($28).

For an entrée I choose the vitello Ariana ($22), named after Catalano's daughter. Thin medallions of veal, scallopini style, share the sauté pan with caramelized criminis, scallions and sweet Marsala wine. The veal is fork tender but slightly tough, and the flour coating comes off a bit gloppy; perhaps some additional pounding would solve both issues. A side of "grilled" polenta appears more pan-fried, but the nice crust helps contain a creamy cornmeal center spiked by whole corn kernels.

We skip dessert and the jazz, but walk along Alvarado content — and sorry about my preconceived notions.

|SHE SAID|

Cibo's busy corner locale is strategic — it almost functions as a decorative downtown accessory. You can walk by, peer in and wonder what all those people are talking about over their sleek martini glasses. Soft light — and, depending on the time, jazz — spills seductively onto the sidewalk, giving the place the look of an exclusive nightclub, which, after hours, it is.

I am mainly impressed by the service here, particularly that of our personable and informed waiter, who good-naturedly answers our myriad questions and isn't shy with recommendations. He times our meal perfectly, gauging the pace by our cues (an art, I've come to believe) — and without hovering.

The Cibo salad is a study in powerful peppery flavors and energetic crunch. The hardier, spikier, wild variety of arugula mingles with radicchio, fennel and Parmiggiano reggiano, perfectly dressed in a light drizzle of shallot red wine vinaigrette ($9); potent flavors definitely not for the iceberg crowd.

After the scalone, I've had enough of picatta-style preparation for one night, but order the spiedini, anyway. It's also served with lemon-caper butter sauce, which I request on the side and employ instead as a nifty dip. Swordfish, pounded thin, is wrapped jelly-roll-style around a stuffing of currants, pinenuts, prosciutto, herbs and cheese. The roll is then breaded and browned, which melts the cheese and makes for a neat little bundle that delivers a pleasant combination of flavors in each pinwheel bite. This signature dish is a play on roulade, but to me, it brings cordon bleu to mind, with the mild fish acting as a vehicle for the more interesting stuffing. Sautéed chard looks dramatic on the plate, and adds a nice bitter-savory complement to this entrée ($19).

Had we arrived by 7 p.m., though, I might have ordered the exact meal from the prezzo fisso menu — plus, a glass of wine and dessert (lemon-infused cr me brulee, Kahlua cheesecake) for only $22. This amazing deal is absolutely worth venturing out a little earlier to be had.

Mike Hale and Melissa Snyder approach their reviews from a couple's perspective. All visits are made anonymously.

ELUSIVE TECHIES EMERGE FOR LAVISH BASH

Penetrating the veil of secrecy that cloaks the Technology Entertainment Design is like trying to remove the pocket protector from an IT geek. It just can't be done.

Stern-faced security forces have been chasing away would-be penetrators from the Monterey Convention Center since the annual TED conference started Wednesday. That's been the drill for as long as TED has called Monterey home.

This year's conference, which ends today with a "beach party" featuring They Might Be Giants, attracted an eclectic group.

The conference spilled onto Alvarado Street on Wednesday and Thursday, where fancy dinners were held at Cibo Restaurant.

Mario Catalano general manager at Cibo, reported that Thursday's dinner bordered on the rapturous. TED completely redecorated the restaurant, complete with shimmery gold linens and a light show. Among the guests seen were actresses Goldie Hawn and Meg Ryan, singers Paul Simon and Tracy Chapman, and the man who would be First Husband, former President Bill Clinton.

"We've done events with TED before, but this was a whole new level," said Catalano.

PROFESSOR TORO
Monterey Herald

Hear what Gene Burns, host of Dining Around 
on KGO AM 810 in San Francisco,
has to say about Cibo...

"This Alvarado Street sweetheart just got a makeover. Have you tasted it yet?

After extensive renovations of both interior and exterior, Cibo
Ristorante Italiano now features a bold new look.

The effort shows. The new Cibo exudes an exciting and vibrant, yet
intimate atmosphere.

The eclectic menu features a blend of old and New World Italian cuisine
adapted from Catalano family recipes.

Popular favorites such as the homemade lasagna are still available. New
items include an entrée named after (the general manager’s) daughter:
Filetto Siena is a grilled 6-ounce filet mignon, served with portobello
mushrooms, grilled polenta and porcini brandy demi-glace . . .and a
favorite (owner/chef) Rosa enjoys every time she is in Italy: Bresaola,
selected beef filet, salted and dry-cured, thinly sliced, served with
arugola, parmiggiano and extra virgin olive oil.

Ute Lange, The Salinas Californian

Some come to experience the food, some the music and
dancing and others to get lost in the neoclassic atmosphere
inspired by owners Mario and Rosa Catalano and created by
designers Charles Gruwell and Cheryl Newman. Located in
the heart of downtown Monterey, this work of art is a
subtle mixture of sophistication and casual elegance.

The most immediate attraction of Cibo is the use of color, and
expressive art in the form of glass, paintings, sculpture
and light designs, but this hot spot doesn't rely on looks alone.

The full service bar has an extensive range of Italian and
California wines, single malt scotches, ports, cognacs and
grappas. Live danceable
Jazz, Soul or Rhythm andBlues are featured here nightly
except Monday. The crowd is generally made up of upscale
professionals, tourists and celebrities in the thirty and
over age group.

Cibo means food in Italian and the menu is a blend of old
and new world Italian cuisine adapted from Catalano family
recipes. The dinner portions are large, and you can choose
from gourmet pizzas to multi-course dinners including chicken,
fresh fish, veal, lamb and steaks.

Though this spot has won numerous awards including
Best Italian Restaurant and Best Place for Live Jazz, you
must see it to appreciate the qualities of Cibo. Located at
301 Alvarado (corner of Alvarado and Del Monte)
Dinner Reservations are recommended. Telephone
649-8151 or visit www.cibo.com.

Cindy Beam, "After Five" - Pubs & Suds